Carven is one of the brands which together with its current designer, Serge Ruffieux, are trying to redefine themselves and find their true identity. This SS 2018 collection seemed to mark the beginning of this exploration by creating an interesting first fashion show. Ruffieux created a triple-tier silhouette consisting of cropped top over mid-length over full. This intriguing layering of the clothes added a hint of uniqueness to its structure. Another exciting addition to the collection was the Gommino style loafers and the Barbour-like coats, two pieces which complemented the collection. The color palette was made up with a lot of royal and space blue, white, beige, olive green and had the overall impression of a collection inspired by a summer in Northern Europe – somewhere in the Nordic. In the end, Serge Ruffieux made a small but successful first step towards establishing an image for Carven. We hope he continues to pave this successful road for himself and the house.
It was the first time for Isabel Marant to present a line of menswear along with her womenswear collection. “We always talk about girls borrowing from their boyfriend, but my boyfriend is always borrowing my clothes,” Marant explained before her show and, thus, she decided to share some of the summer vibe of her clothes with the boys in a collection which borrows full of attires borrowed from the girls. Full of white, black, punch pink and sacramento green colors, the models walked down the catwalk wearing creations reminding vibes of a summer that is yet to come. Crochet bikinis, denim and anorak jackets, shiny metallic jumpsuits and asymmetric going out tops paired up to create the perfect combination between going out and streetwear pieces. The addition of a range of different shoes, from Japanese-style flip flops to strappy metallic heels, strengthened this marriage of styles. Isabel Marant has created her distinct style for her house, a style that writes its own history in the fashion world.
Creative Director Phoebe Philo wanted Celine’s SS18 collection to be nothing other than optimistic and to evoke a sense of joy. Conservative yet chic, oversized pieces in toned-down, luxurious fabrics dominated the runway. Desiring a consistent level of stylish comfort, nothing was too fitted or tight to wear, perfect for the everyday. An earthy palette swept through the collection in muted tones of blush, white, stone, ash- and shadow-grey, taupe, beige and camel, chocolate, khaki, and black. As Philo herself said, the trenchcoat was her jumping-off point for the collection, so an emphasis on outerwear was made: blazers and suit separates, large waist-coat style vests, flowing ponchos. An innovative design was her double-layered trench, with one section fitting closely around the shoulders and the other as a normal coat. Retaining a modern feminine flair, gold jewellery, pleats, leather, and cotton dominated, as well as lots of fringe, keeping the collection modern and fashionable while still retaining a high level of comfort that was never forsaken. The thread of comfort was woven throughout, even down to footwear and accessories: sneakers and lace-up oxfords; oversized totes tucked under the models’ arms or hand-held.
This collection was based on alternative suiting, a blend of traditional and fantastical – stiff cuffs, tailored trousers, collared blouses, blazers – yet freely constructed with sheer, silk, and cotton. Then shimmery, metallic, fish scale-effect knitted skirts and sweaters, like medieval chain-armour and a silver sequin, veil-like, icy-blue organza dress. A cool palette and muted patterns featured: pinstripes; geometric shapes of daisy-yellow, white, strawberry-red, and electric-blue; cloud-and-sky-effect bleached denim. Rose-gold neoprene, corset-style belts with cobalt-shade zippers highlighted the waist. Jewellery was minimalist, from the simple silver chain necklaces to the creative store security-tag plastic earrings. Models clutched vibrant green palm fronds or layers of beaded necklace.
This season John Galliano presented a collection which he called “the glamour of travelling” and captured the glamour behind past-tie in the anonymity of an airport in between flights. Galliano showed, once again, his best abilities as a designer by putting together a fashion show while deconstructing the clothes to their core (what holds them together). He put into practice his plisse soleil technique in dresses, jackets and trench coats together with bras worn as outerwear with underwire and earl embellishments. The designs were completed with the addition of tags which read “priority,” “first class” and gold,” adding in a final touch of airport chic to the looks. Galliano proved himself, once again, as the master of design and fabrics by bring to life a collection of clothes which seemed as if they came out of the wildest fantasies of every woman who is looking for a glamorous flying experience.
Olivier Rousteing is one of the designers leading the millennial fashion generation with the help of an army of hot celebrities such as the Kardashians. His latest show was presented in Palais Garnier in Paris where Rousteing used to visit the opera when he was a child. Thus, the SS 2018 collection of Balmain is all about making memories. The collection, even though it had a simple color palette of white, black and metallics, it plays a lot on different patterns and decorations such as: vinyl, ball embellishment, crystal, sequins, beading, chains and braiding. Those decorations define the silhouette of the models in different ways as the eyes of the audience focus on the textures of the clothes on the collection. Olivier Rousteing made another powerful memory with his new collection for Balmain and showed once again what makes him on of the most influential and well-known designers of this age.
Under the bright lights of the Paris’ most iconic monuments, the Eiffel Tower, Antony Vaccarello showed his latest creations for the Saint Laurent house. The designer drew a lot of his inspiration from his friendship with Pierre Bergé and the history of Yves Saint Laurent. The collection was like a teenage dream of the designer’s past – only a little edgier. Female models walked down the catwalk in black slouchy boots, black leather shorts with see-though blouses, low-cut v-neck rompers with metallic details, and mini dresses. Male models wore classic skinny black pants with black boots while all the attention was put in the detailed jackets with sometimes colorful pattern, metallic details or sequins. Black, white and khaki seemed to be the color palette for Saint Laurent this season. Vaccarello’s SS collection for Saint Laurent found its place in the city of lights, under the Eiffel Tower, where the house’s founder and co-founder would be pleased to see the exciting future of Saint Laurent.
After Maria Grazia Chiuri’s first collection for the Dior house which turned heads with her t-shirts “We Should All Be Feminists,” the designer came back with a new collection straight from the seventies’ French feminist sculptress, Niki de Saint Phalle, which she presented in Musée Rodin in Paris. The fashion show opened up with the first model walking down the catwalk in a t-shirt with the question “Why Have There Been No Great Women Artists?” printed on it which set the tone for the collection and alluded back to de Saint Phalle. The clothes following featured a lot of strips and check patterns in black, blue, white, red with yellow and pink details. See-through tulle dresses and skirts, over-the-knee stripped socks, thigh boots, sunglasses with yellow lenses, Gatsby hats and small handbags with black straps were some of the highlights which created an ethereal silhouette on the models. With this powerful collection Chiuri made another bold statement in the fashion world encouraging women to always shoot higher, “it was very difficult for women to express themselves. But the new generation, I think, has to fight with themselves to change the already set ideas.”
Nina Ricci’s fashion show took place on the steps Hotel National Des Invalides while Beethoven’s Symphony No 7 was playing. The collection had many references to the French foreign legion, imperial India and Don Quixote – influences which could be seen in the accessories worn by the models on the runway such as feather-adorned kepi hats, tasseled epaulettes and feather boas. Logos were a big part of the Ricci collection as Guillaume Henry added the “NR” logo in black patent loafers, wait cliching belts and heavy fabrics. There were also multiple military references in the SS18 collection like pocket-strewn safari jackets, trench coats and cropped jackets with tasselled epaulettes. Guillaume Henry his SS18 collection for Nina Ricci was a mixture of old style with new details which made the clothes refreshing and unique.
Under the colonnade of Paris bourse, Lutz Huelle presented his latest collection which was a marriage between streetwear and elegance. “I wanted something imposing and exaggerated, but to work how to wear it to go vegetable shopping or whatever. I asked myself how to make clothes for every occasion but not in the sense of red carpet occasion,” Huelle explained. As a result, he managed to find the perfect balance of couture references and sense of cool. By pushing the volume of downwards in the silhouettes walking down the runway, creation which combined lace, denim and trench coats were able to shine. Plisse tunic dresses, narrow pants and elaborative outwear in the colors of red, blue, black and white made up the perfect combinations of between streetwear and outwear. Lutz Huelle’s SS18 collection was the perfect mixture between elegance and comfort created with simple lines and the blend of different fabrics.
Competing against Saint Laurent, one of the biggest and most well-known names in the fashion industry, Olivier Theyskens’ fashion show took place in Paris, thirty minutes before Saint Laurent’s show under the Eiffel Tower. Even though there was an apparent difference between the two shows in terms of popularity and budget, Theyskens was not afraid to challenge himself and shoot for something greater. The collection he presented was a marriage between dark and light with the main colors black, white and maroon red bringing out the contrast in the clothes. High-shlashed long dresses in silk which accentuated the models’ silhouette, black boots, t-shirt necklines and hems and black evening gloves were the fundamental elements of the fashion show which showed Theyskens’ full potential as a designer. Going up against Saint Laurent is already enough, but the designer’s collection marked him as a strong competitor with a bright future ahead of him.
“I feel I need to propose experimental grace and fame as a gesture of turning away from threat. Not really as escapism but as reflection,” Rick Owens explained about his latest SS18 which took place in the courtyard of Palais de Tokyo in Paris. His environmental conscience and sociopolitical restlessness is portrayed the fashion collection he presented under the tones of his wive’s, Michele Lamy, band called Lavascar. Unique creations in white, black, forest grey and different tones of grey walked down the runaway achieving a sense of awakening but also comfortable discomfort that only Owen’s can create. Asymmetrical draped dresses, shredded fabrics and a lot of volume added on the shoulders were the main characteristics of the show. In the ends, Rick Owen’s show was all about hope, at list according to him, but whatever the audience took out of this collection Owen’s hopes that will awake the fashion world.
1st image Dior
2nd image Each X Other
3rd image Esteban Cortazar
5th image Kenzo