Diane Von Furstenberg

The nostalgic wave struck Diane von Furstenberg. Her collection is a tribute to the 70’s – the early days of the brand and the glamorous encounters with the likes of Mick Jagger and David Bowie. Fast-forward to Spring Summer 2018, Jonathan Saunders’ third season at the fashion house is based on these memories. The designer goes through the archives of expressive shapes and colours, then restructure them in more modern material, respecting the primary and neutral palette. From the forest green low-cut bordered garland-patterned kaftan dress and dangling earrings that match the top of the laced peep-toe boots, to the white oversized buttoned down shirt and high-waisted vivdly striped palazzo trousers tied together by a satin belted waist and a multi-coloured and layered tassel shoulder bag, and the mesh to wet satin blue ensemble with a zig-zag of long tassels, the intricate fabric mane and circular hardware are always omnipresent. The deep-v’s to put forward the statement necklace, lustrous hankerchief bottoms, breezy but bright maxi numbers, asymmetric details, suede tailored jackets, cropped felted and embroidered denim-like jacket with a two-coloured fur collar and even the beaded-braided bag straps can’t possibly summarize the whole decade. 

Prabal Gurung

As an open political advocate, Prabal Gurung’s no stranger to change, and is not afraid to promote it, especially through his expertise. This Spring Summer 2018 collection is no different. From blues and pinks, to the brighter yellows and florals, and to the closing dark colours, a diverse casting parade in tailored jackets and coats, leg and shoudler bearing dresses, a variety of sleeves and periodic ruffles, paired with sporty-chic heels. The twisted dark pink and rose sheer maxi gown with a thigh high slit, that display divine elegance, the long corset-like khaki coat with oversized shoulders give the women’s figure more authority. The uncanny mix-and-match of sheer and wet-looking materials and hefty fabrics are all strategically selected and shaped to flatter the feminine figure, such as the blue chiffon excessively ruffled collar with fabric cascading down the sides of the arms, on top of an off-white high-waisted patent shorts. Needless to say, some things never change, like Gurung’s signature cut-outs with rouleau buttons featured on many of his pieces this season.

 Matthew Adams Dolan

From the denim-loving ode to the rethought uniform, Matthew Adams Dolan has undoubtedly a soft spot for the oversized. In his Spring Summer 2018 collection, it’s all about the sleeves and layers. The trusty old school – striped and plain – blouse’s sleeves and shoulderpads are blown out of proportion, trendy new ways of buttoning, underwear showing is a fashion statement. The cozy cable knit sweaters, tailored jackets and raincoats, straight fit trousers – or boxers – and short skirts can’t even take our eyes off of it. To bring a fresh edge to the classic navies, greys and other workwear neutrals, the designer incorporates one bright colour – pink, yellow, blue – in an outfit at a time. Minimal accessories and knee-high socks with ballerinas are the way to go back-to-basics.

Brock Collection

As the fallen leaves roam the catwalk, Brock Collection’s Spring Summer 2018 collection unravels. The effortlessly romantic outfits blossom on stage and; the opening white lining-less cherry lace number with a plunging neckline and simple gladiator sandals already give a clear concept of the season: it’s romantic yet relaxed. Florals are as dainty as the lace; collarbones and shoulders are on show, especially with the straps falling off them; the belt steps in to add shape here and there; sandals are as flat as possible. Bringing the mood from indoors to outdoors, the dresses drip in romance. The intricate layered layers, light garland-like floral embroidery against a blushing ribbed fabric, the pale canvas paints a vague picture of intimacy.

Jeremy Scott

For the past 20 years, his Jeremy Scott’s whimsical and conspicuous designs may have been lost of you. But marking two decades challenging the conventions of fashion, Jeremy Scott has thrived, cementing himself as a cult favourite. Scott has not taken everything so seriously through his journey, his whimsy designs, often fetishizing popular culture taken from the youth, cartoons, films and often vulgar themes, his pieces are more often speculative than wearable.

Credit where credit is due, Scott spearhead a movement that designers would soon see themselves following in the coming seasons. Fashion was not elusive market for the rich and wealthy. His designs were playful and diverse, a mix of athleisure, a riot of colour and littered with motifs. As many imagined marking such a momentous occasion, his SS18 show paid homage to themes synonymous to the Jeremy Scott name, that his loyal followers would be sure to recognise. Striking bold colours, repeated print motifs, sequins, gems and over the knee boots.

Scott was iron-willed about scrutinising his prior designs and translating that into his ideal, modern Jeremy Scott muse. From the nonconformist misfit to the more reserved yet street style cool girl or if you are a guy yearning for a pair of brightly coloured or sequined pants, there was something for everyone. Camo pants, cropped leather and snake print jackets and deconstructed sweaters were fiercely paraded down the runway and every eccentric neon colour in the palette made an appearance. If you need a pointer or two on how to style mesh this season, lo and behold beaded mesh underlays in acidic, often mismatched colours.     

Jonathan Simkhai

Jonathan Simkhai invites you to take a walk through the clouds, among the chaos of New York Fashion Week. The light blues, cream neutrals and soft whites simply work with the airy and sensual silhouettes of lace, crochet and other light fabrics. Asymmetrical cut-outs, loose fits, waist-wrapping and handkerchief hems marry the subtle athleisure in the loose bottoms and one-fabric manipulation ensemble – hence the comfort of Reeboks and the minimalism of Manolo Blahnik – to the fresh and lofty of the “bed head” look with the epicurean necklines, corset-inspired tops and soft see-throughness of the slip dress. Of course, what will a transitional wardrobe be without some staples like the suede trenchcoat, embellished white denim jacket and a few striped blouses?

Desigual

Where tradition meets modernism, Desigual will make your hips move at their Spring Summer 2018 show where colours burst to multicultural fireworks. Under Jean-Paul Goude’s direction, the catwalk becomes a choreographed stage, using the body as a blank canvas and clothes as the storyline. Combined with their famous use of graffiti art, patchwork, intense prints and asymmetry, the fusion of cultural codes will resonate in everyone’s ears. Among the American sailor’s cap, Far Estearn embroidered pieces, Indian embellishements, Native American beads and feathers, and African influences, there’ a sense of rythmic and upbeat joy. Yes, there’s braided mesh, leather, denim, silk, sweatshirt, fringes, and many more to put on the map. Head-to-toe cross-continent looks paired with flamboyant up-dos, colourblock knitwear, platform sneakers, and excessive accessorising give the prints and layers a diverse narrative that focuses on individuality and freedom.

 Hero4Heroes

The latest collection of the brand Hero4Heroes was presented in New York fashion week and it was full of vibrant colors and patterns. “Each design is unique; it is an unfinished story, completed by the personality and attitude of the wearer. I want each Hero4Heroes wearer to be her own ‘fashion hero’, to look at herself as a beacon of her own self-expression,” Marijana Hero, the founder explained. Prints, embroidery, textile collages and sequins await a true character to carry them.

Coach 1941

Fan of Americana and Keith Haring, it was only a matter of time before Vevers would draw inspiration from both to get the crowd cheering for the Spring Summer 2018 collection. There are never enough accessories to turn up the volume in the middle of a cosmopolitan ambulance-meets-train symphony. Bling here, bling there. This glitter feast is not for the faint-hearted. 

The revamped knitted jockey sweaters and cardigans with sequins and geometrical patterns, the revisited bomber jackets in a more glamorous silk with sparkling embellishments, the dark glistening (and animal print) mid-western boots, the city-wear version of a Hawaiian shirt already significantly evoke American culture. Then come the sepia-toned loving heavily decorated western shirt-inspired pieces, horse-riding style denim bottoms or even a whole ensemble adorned with a variety of elements (just like how you would personalise a long-loved denim jacket or laptop), and the all-time essential leather jacket with a western twist.

If Haring wasn’t only appreciated for his goal of art democratising, his signature clean-lined characters have stolen many hearts beyond the States. As his later work challenged the spatial concept in art, it inevitably inspired the designer to incorporate his art in this collection. Whether a Haring character was just used as a focal point on a garment like the black t-shirt with mesh stripes, that features the classical fashion house print with a three-eyed face, or it populates an entire fabric like the excessively layered and jewelled dress with printed mesh and chiffon overlay.

The amicable clash between hard and soft, metallic and pastel. Jewelled necklines, accessories, and other details, combined with the clean-cut mesh sleeves and boxy bag give the floral embroidered silky pale yellow slip dress an edge. The soft ensembles are often sit under a structured jacket and paired with a boxy bag, and chunky shoes and accessories. Take the long tailored oxblood coloured leather jacket with hardware, that’s worn over a light lilac top with the dazzling Haring heart that parallels the full sequined skirt with cream lace under the hem. 

Philipp Plein

Utter the name Philip Plein a couple of years ago and you will be greeted with blank expression. Utter the name now and you’ll either be greeted with a look of marvel or sheer dislike. The furniture turned clothes designer reflects as much of his personality, one which is now synonymous with the brand. His gaudy designs are targeted towards the nouveau riche – the footballers and socialites of the world. From the swarms of celebrities, featuring the likes of fifth harmony and Nicki Minaj, to Dita Von Teese Burlesque dancing in a giant martini glass, to Future providing the musical entertainment, alike his other shows, which are theatrically over produced and riddled with celebrities, this season did not disappoint.

Both men’s and women were presented simultaneously under the theme ‘Good Girl Gone Bad’.A manifestation of dark romanticism, Plein sent models down the runway in graphic tees depicting Disney characters in a vulgar manner alongside tasteless slogans ‘Prince Charming made me do it’ and ‘good gone bad’ – a euphemism for innocence gone wrong? If that wasn’t so obvious to spot, perhaps the Rapunzel style hair with long flowing dresses, contrast of black and white materiality and bondage crinoline hoops with flower detailing paired with frilly socks were enough to convince of the rouge fantasy girl that Plein is depicting.

For men’s, the Plein moniker remains much intact. Leather jackets, lots of denim, encrusted acid washed ripped jeans visibly displaying the branded briefs and high top trainers, being flaunted down the runway by shirtless models. 

Chocheng

As an ode to British tailoring, Chocheng takes us back to the Golden Age of Haute Couture, the Fifties, for her Spring Summer 2018 collection, with influences of the one and only Marlene Dietrich from Witness for the Prosecution. Red, pink, lavender, blue colourblocking brings the black-and-white scenes to life. ¾ length sleeves, nipped-in waists, predominantly knee-length hems, statement buttons, borering braids, tweed-derived seperates and boucléed jackets tie in perfectly with the wavy blonde fringe, feline-flicked eyes, flesh-toned stockings and t-strap pumps. Layering often takes shape in an overall vivid shade takeover with a clashing patch of neutral, in the gloom of the trial. The calm and cold Christine is finally shown in all her colour-rendered lawsuit glamour.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2nd image Brandon Maxwell

3rd image Brock Collection

4rth image Desigual

5th image Jeremy Scott