The Les Copains Spring/Summer 18 press release promised, “Experimental use of tulle, cross-fertilized folk aesthetic with a Mexican infusion.”
True to form, Stefania Banderia presented loose chiffon, boho inspired maxi dresses and fedora hats, blending folk inspired patterns and dreamy full skirts.
The ‘experimental’ tulle translated into full sleeves on layered contemporary dresses, in vivid hothouse shades of orange and fuchsia unexpectedly paired with pastel tones like baby pinks and soft greys. Elsewhere the romantic, flowing silhouettes were juxtaposed by boyish, printed, indigo dungarees with belted braces and chunky jewellery drawn from the glamourous bohemian sprit of Millicent Rogers.
Plunging necklines were framed by long chains adorned with dangling red chilli pepper pendants and bare arms were covered with chunky bangles and metal cuffs.
Bandiera weaves Southwestern style through the collection seamlessly, from the billowing sleeves on white shirts to gauzy tunics and cowboy boots. Several looks included cricket jumper-silhouette knitwear or crochet tops undeniably incorporating the brands powerful knitwear heritage.
Volumes of silk and muslin is reworked with accents of leather and rope, the collection communicates varied femininity; sophisticated elegance with a structural strength.
A colorful patchwork tent by artist Rachel Hayes looms over the crowd as the idyllic Italian sunset washes a golden glow over Missoni’s Spring / Summer 2018 collection. This collection marks the 20 year anniversary celebrating the family-run brand and pays homage to the passing of Luca Missoni, and patriarch Vittorio Missoni. Translucence and volume were key themes in the collection and current designer Angela Missoni revamped iconic patterns and motifs from an 80s Missoni collection as the core inspiration. The collection was eccentric with coquettish playfulness, a signature of the Missoni woman; inspired by 70s Biba-esque muses and Jodi Foster’s flirty Lolita from Taxi Driver. Colossal floppy hats, sheer knit fabrics enveloped braless models (reminiscent of their first “braless” Missoni show in 1967).
This season models sport mid-length A-line skirts and cinched-in waists. The collection plays with patterns and shapes as pieces in nylon, PVC and silk are patterned with stripes, oversized checks and chevron, putting a carefully thought out spin on “ladylike”.
This collection is the first by Paul Surridge, the recently appointed creative director of the fashion house. The collection exudes “stripped back chic and sexy” with racer-back and one-shoulder necklines, sheer panel floor-length dresses and midriff-baring oversized jackets in neutral and earth tones. Contrasting this are zebra prints and alligator skin that are typical of the brand. The collection plays with silhouettes, from wide leg trousers, shirts cinched by the waist with a belt to more streamlined mini dresses.
This collection’s main feature was texture, with a plethora of sheer, tassel, and crochet. In a state of edgy theatricality, the figure-hugging looks left little to the imagination, using an abundance of diaphanous sheer and spiderweb-like crochet, yet they still exuded a timeless glamour. Featured: mustard halterneck mini-dresses with gold tassels; long-sleeved black-and-mesh dress with beaded fringe detailing; buttermilk cut-out bodysuit with frosty lilac fringing; resembling a fishing net, netted beige dress with gold beading. Metallic tassels, with the length and flow of Rapunzel’s hair, cascaded from necklines and hems, busts and hips, giving a gothic, festival feel to the alluring looks; the resulting sway as the models strutted the length of the catwalk breathed a confidently sassy attitude. A fantastical air swept through the collection, feeling both ethereal and bewitched: an ivory feathered coat resembling angel wings was paired with oversized neon-pink sunglasses; pale pink, under-the-sea-inspired lilac mesh dress with glass jewels that were reminiscent of an oyster’s shimmery pearl interior. Footwear was simple and black: platform booties, heels with lycra socks, and ankle-tied pumps. Hair was tied back in a low ponytail and covered in a blunt-cut silver wig, and the models wore smudged lipstick in vibrant shades of strawberry, rose, watermelon, and tangerine.
This show comes at the 20th anniversary of the death of Gianni Versace. To commemorate the loss of the iconic designer, sister and creative director of the brand, Donatella Versace used the Versace archives as inspiration of this collection. In true Versace fashion, prints reigned supreme. The colour palette ranged from bold red and blues to pastel pinks to the signature Versace yellow and black. Strong shoulder silhouettes weaved their way throughout most of the collection, defining the Versace woman as powerful above all else. A defining moment for this show was the final walk by supermodels; Naomi Campbell, Helena Christensen, Cindy Crawford, Claudia Schiffer and Carla Bruni.
This season, the brand offers a streamlined, effortless collection. Racerback tops, tailored trousers, trenchcoats, and blazers are replicated in camel, black and white, grey pinstripe. Patterned pencil skirts and dresses also make their way into the collection.
This season’s collection revolves around Jeremy Scott’s vision, “biker ballerinas” as he puts it. Styled in leather jackets, fishnet tights, biker boots and tulle tutus, the first half of the collection mixes the girlish baby pinks and blues with the black leather for a striking contrast. The second half of the collection, sees the models transform into flower. From flower-inspired gowns of red, orange and purple to the quite literal bouquet of flowers, this collection is a playful thing of contrasts.
Francesco Risso proved himself as a designer once again with his SS18 collection for Marni. Risso created a seductive and captivating treasure hunt for adults, “it’s almost like a bizarre cocktail of objects that have rained down on her. She’s almost like an archaeologist who is scavenging into a truck full of objects, dreams, stories, life and movement movies” he explained. Models wearing his fascinating creations walked down the catwalk retro florals and checks in forest green, blue, pink and red. Bags in different sizes and colors were an addition to the collection which complemented the already existing looks. After the presentation of his men’s fashion show in June, Francesco Risso took another challenge with the women’s collection and managed to create looks which proved that he is able to pleasantly surprise everyone on the show.
Palazzo Serbelloni was the setting for the SS18 collection of Ermano Servino which is going to be worn by the woman not only nowadays but also in the future. “Nowadays the fashion world has an almost infinite proposal women have any kind of dress in their wardrobe. You must therefore be not only current but even a step forward, projected to the future, in order to offer women clothes a moment before they desire them,” Servino explained. This year’s collection was a tribute the slip dress – a very feminine piece which set the tone for whole collection. Duchess satin creation with details such as wisteria flowers of lacework, plisse and beading were seen walking down the runway. Tulle gloves, sheer knitwear and little belts added a little bit more glamour and girliness to the fashion show. Ermano Servino created a collection which will surely be worn not only today but also in the years to come.
Daniela Gregis sported Mykonos beachwear chic as she transported us to the sea, sand and beyond. Materiality and texture alluded rawness in the most elegant of demeanours. Gregis undoubtedly went to the beach for inspiration. Sporting stripes, both vertical and horizontal, a raw dyed looked, crinkled lined and boxy, free silhouettes, the collection has an element of small village fisherman chic. Jumpers and long cardigans turned the looks from daytime beach stroll to glamorous evening dinners, as accessories of raffia straw hats, crotchet knit bags, sandals, coloured sunglasses and handkerchief neckties brought the looks together. Bright, bold colours in every summery hue on flowing dresses, trenches and shirts radiated a longing for summer in Spectacularly one of the marvels of the show was the models. Male and female alike of all ages stormed the runway, a collection fit for everyone.
Vivetta Ponti showed her SS18 collection in Milan – a collection which was heavily inspired by Russian contemporary artist, Andrey Remnev. Ponti’s influence from Remnev helped her create a fairy-tale atmosphere with the addition of mythological creatures, owls, dragonflies and weird little animals, exotic leaves, and cartoon-like hieroglyphics in her clothes. The color palette consisted of colours which contrasted each other such as light blue and baby pink matched with fluorescent tones and gold. An unexpected combination which turned many heads during the show. There was a feminine vibe which was conveyed through the fabrics used in the collection such as sequin, raw edge tulle, micro mesh lace and organza. Vivetta Ponti’s new collection is a mixture of her own style with any inspiration drawn from the work of Andrey Remnev – this partnership was able to give birth to a powerful collection.
1st image Gabriele Colangelo
2nd image Marco De Vincenzo
3rd image Marni
4rth image Max Mara
5th image Moschino