This was the second fashion show for Antonio D’Anna in the Krizia house and this time the designer tried to make the Italian brand shine once again and make it trend back. Although this is not possible to achieve overnight, D’Anna made the first attempt towards a new era for the brand. Models walked down the runway in creations with animal motifs (such as wolves and eagles), flower patterns, pleats, asymmetries and jackets with kimono-style sleeves. There were also some looks which included cuts in the sleeves and pants that added a 3D effect to the looks of the collection. The overall tone palette of the collection is set around bright colors such as yellow, black, Persian green, white and red which made the look stand out on the runway. Antonio D’Anna presented the SS18 collection for Krizia wanting to bring back the glamour ad recognition that the house was missing, he might not have fully achieved it in this collection but he is surely on his way.
Embracing individuality, this season’s collection encapsulates just that. From jumpers embossed with the Gucci logo, sequinned dresses paired with opaque tights and ballerina flats, oversized fur coats, silk jumpsuits with exaggerated shoulders, it’s clear that anything goes.
Disorient was the key theme for Manuel Facchini’s Spring/ Summer 2018 collection referencing Kill Bill’s Black Mamba and Japanese Geishas. Referencing Black Mamba’s iconic black striped yellow track suit, sports-inspired details flourished throughout the collection. Tracksuit bomber jackets, tennis skirt pleats, and cinched belts inspired by karate black belts were juxtaposed by chiffons, silk-satins, and fluttering lace. 60s optical graphics were infused into the embroideries, utilitarian jackets and diaphanous dresses, accented with bold neon yellows, cerulean blues, and military greens. Boxy silhouettes, waist defining skirts and dresses, and languid volumes dominated Facchini’s latest collection topped with color blocked eye makeup and punchy stirpes painted on sleek hair.
Muccia Prada presented her latest Prada collection inside the teatro Via Fogazzaro whose walls she had covered with comic book motifs. As she said, “you could say it was a masculine collection but I don’t want to say that. Whenever men describe a strong woman they say that.” Her collection carried a lot masculine elements, however, it was first and foremost a tribute to superhuman and, more specifically heroines of every shape or form whether they can be found inside a comic book or out on the streets. The creation initially started as all-white dresses and then all the detais were added on them such as: pink brocade, animal prints, studs, buttons and comic book motifs. Almost like a white canvas. Herringbone coats with leopard lapels, roomy blazers with rolled-up sleeves and broad-lapelled coats added a masculine air to the collection which created a perfect harmony with more feminine looks like baby doll dresses, bustiers with bows and big ole’ shirts. The final message behind Prada’s collection was “encouragement and strength” which the designer believes is very needed at this age.
Gaia Trussardi presented her latest collection for the house of Trussardi in Milan Fashion Week. The inspiration behind the collection came from the traits which define the identity of the city of Milan such as: a sense of adventure, laboriousness, creative industriousness, openness to diversity, an international attitude and a strong desire to escape every weekend of the year to the mountain or the sea. The creations were a combination of practical and urban with a youthful and energetic spirit – nothing complicated and nothing that stands out. Models walked on the runway wearing many types of leather outwear like biker jackets, bombers and dusters, flowly dresses, bright flower slip dresses, trench coats, fluid pants and blouses. The Trussardi collection SS18 was filled with functional everyday pieces which were everything that a woman would want to put on a simple look.
When entering the Tod’s fashion show, the attendants were able to watch scenes from the 1999 movie “The Talented Mr. Ripley” with Gwyneth Paltrow and Jude Law – a movie shot in Italy which displayed the laid back lifestyle of the country. Following this idea and inspiration, the SS18 Tod’s collection embraced the creation of a modern leisure wardrobe. The collection was mostly based on a nude color palette with blouson shirts, wrap skirts, pajama sets, button-downs, pleated midis and silk twill shirts. Tod’s is, of course, a leather accessories brand and thus its well-known lather bags could not be missing be missing. In addition, shoes were another highlight of the show as snakeskin sandals, loafer-like sneakers, quilted satin slip-ons and fringed suede moccasins were seen on the runway in a show which made the brend shine once again.
This collection comprises of mostly athleisure-inspired pieces. In a palette of navy, white, green and pink (both printed, striped and solid), the collection exudes effortless style and plays with shape; from the handkerchief hem skirts, asymmetrical tops to wide leg trousers and fitted co-ordinates.
Simonetta Ravizza founded her brand back in 1990 in Milan and now, 27 years later, the name echoes of pure Italian sophistication and class. Simonetta Ravizza presented her SS18 collection in her hometown of Milan with a line of clothing which reminded everyone of a long awaited summer somewhere far away in an exotic island. The color palette of white, light blue, pink, red, and brown added light to the collection and highlighted the different textures of the clothes. The models walked down holding fur bags, an iconic piece of the brand, and wearing fur jackets with Hawaiian ibiscus prints, skirts and bags with leopard prints and black sandals. Fur is considered as a passé partout piece which creates refined yet easygoing looks for every occasion. Simonetta Ravizza presented a collection which fits with the energy and the principles of the brand with a more summery vibe.
Fulvio Rigoni presented his SS18 collection for Salvatore Ferragamo in the piazza outside Milan’s stock exchange. The inspirations behind Rigoni’s latest collection were some of the greatest women in history who wore Ferragamo shoes for their appearances such as: Greta Garbo, Carmen Miranda, Brigitte Bardot, Eva Peron and Marilyn Monroe. Models walked down the raised runway wearing creations which used snakeskin as the link when trying to mix and match different textures and eras such as the 70s, 50s and 30s. The bold choice of snakeskin was further complemented with the use of light blue, orange, warm pink and Dijon yellow tones and small handbags which added to the collection the missing elements to an impressive collection.
Alessandro Dell’ Acqua came back and reclaimed the No. 21 brand which he regretfully had to give up some years ago. After coming through all the hardships, Dell’ Acqua created a collection which talked about the past of the house which he then brought to the present in order to reflect the future steps of the brand. The collection was full of rosy and sand tones which set the evening looks of the show including: sheer and tiered dresses with lingerie details or combinations of ruche-fronted skirts with shirts. More morning looks were created with the addition of leather parkas with crystal-lined hoods, leather shirts and knitted cardigans in the collection. Dell’ Acqua’s come back fashion show was all about compensating for his lost time in the house by producing a collection that spoke about the paste, the present and ultimately the future.
The Italian fashion house takes inspiration from the 60s and 70s with “retro vacation” being the apparent theme of the collection. This season; straight, clean-cut lines and boxy shapes are favoured. From belts to accentuate the models waist, oversized round sunglasses to a handbag, the accessories complimented the overall look and emphasised the glamorous and feminine image that each model portrayed. Menswear followed with straight-cut jackets, tucked in shirts, straight trousers and a holdall. Both menswear and womenswear incorporated velvet, leather, snakeskin print, suede and silk and a bevy of red, black, olive green, powdery pink and lilac as a reference to the luxe looks of the past – glamorous is one word that sums up this collection.
Goga Ashkenazi presented her latest collection for SS18 in Santa Maria delle Grazie in Milan. Ashkenazi was inspired for this season’s collection by Japan and this was apparent not only in the patterns but also in the fabrics she used for her creations. The French fashion house was all about long, flowing silhouettes this season with silk gowns in an array of jewel tones, boxy suits with button detailing and sheer-panel dresses. In addition, cotton poplin played an important role as one of the main fabrics in the collection and the Japanese inspiration became more apparent in embroidered lattice dresses. Goga Ashkenazi came up with a brand new collection which was able to stand out in Milan fashion week and gain many compliments from people of the fashion world.
1st image Fendi
2nd image Gabriele Colangelo
3rd image Marco De Vincenzo
4rth image Marni
5th image Moschino