Different shades of brown were shown in this collection with a blend of black, white and navy. The collection offered captivating pieces from chestnut coloured grandpa tweeds to muddy pleated and mahogany cashmere wools. A root bree-brown skirt right below the knee styled with a black short-sleeved knit with white belt and black shiny shoes with a cappuccino coloured knit worn around the throat was considered one of the best looks of the show.
This season’s newcomer Gareth Wrighton presented his collection by tackling the state of the union. His designs reflected on the impact of the modern world and the current state of the American landscape. The Central Saint Martins graduate made trousers with slogans like “caution” and “therapy dog” down the side. The hair of the models were styled like traffic cones.
Breaking away from being a designer conveying strong clear message with his collections and shows, this year was different. Presenting a collection where models were seen in XXXL wigs, techno-coloured sequins giving the idea of being joined, oversized sweaters. Creative dresses with trouser-suits and denim had a heavy amount of sparkle.
STEVE O SMITH
Eudon choi , a Korean designer who executed the aesthetics of image makers Guy Bourdin and Meret Oppenheim. By juxtaposing vivid color scheme which saw the shade of azure blue and Tanquerie punctuate which are choi’s signature earthy tonnes. The collection showed suiting’s with one belted ,kick flared two piece in a lucid lime green which made the front row to grab their phones instantly. There were two tone trousers and trenches layered over shirt dresses, and clever hybrid drawstring hooded pin stripped shirts. The collection showed a blend of tweeds and velvets with leather patchwork which brought the essence of 3- dimensionality.
MALENE ODDERSHADE BACH
Malene Oddershede Bach channelled the Autumn season into her new collection that incorporated a palette infused with shades of black, brown, berry red, winter pinks, yellows and greys. The ensembles in the collection included flowing dresses, two-piece suits, bandeau gowns and had strong textures and floral patterns. Some dresses featured embroidery and double florals- where two entirely contrasting floral patterns blended together seamlessly and artistically. The runway was a facsimile of a park in Autumn with dried leaves strewn across the floors and dappled lights that complimented the setting and the whole collection.
Nabil Nayal derived inspiration from Marie Antoinette and his collection is very reminiscent of the chemise à la reine from 18th century France. His chosen colour palette was dominated by three shades in particular – black, white and blood red. His collection was a mirror for historical French fashion aptly titled ‘Let them Revolt’. Nayal’s creations stood out amongst many with particulars such as crisp white-on-white cotton piqué and poplin, ruffled cuffs, and poet sleeves. Other outfits also included chemise with a foulard, a frock-coat dress with a waistcoat. The models strutted down the runway with stoic expressions, a strong resonance to the French Queen and her courtiers.
Alice Archer was inspired by Lucas Cranach the Elder’s painting for her collection. The painting seemed to be about fertility with lots of apples and cherries revealing the fecund symbolism of ‘cupid complaining to Venus’ which is in London’s national gallery as her main reference point. The silhouette were kept simple with embroideries including claret velvet gown, and an versatile black frock with fluted sleeves, which had the flowers of the snowball tree and berries with white embroidered apples on an olive green satin dress, giving the effect of fruit popping off the cloth.
KATIE ANN McGUIGAN
Based on the biker subculture from Japan, Bosozoku or ‘Speed Tribe’, Katie Ann McGuigan’s new collection is heavily influenced by trademark DIY customised motorcycles and uniforms with slogans. The added effect relies on textures and patterns complimented by an unusual but apt colour palette comprising lilac, mint, ochre, navy and jade. Katie Ann McGuigan’s outfits incorporated heavy leathers, sporty nylons, chunky wools and thermochromic fabrics, deriving silhouettes referencing 90s and 80s styles. In addition, the signature layered skirts, floaty tulle dresses, panelled skirts, longline puffa gilets, zip up boiler suits, and tie-dyed button down shirts were featured in the collection.