For his first standalone London Fashion Week show, A Sai Ta, the designer behind ASAI celebrated monochromes beauties. On the catwalk, the designer used his background in retail, and we could see a strong focus on cut, layering and proportion. For this collection, the ASAI woman wore double-breasted jackets, tailored trousers and peasant dresses made from wools and vintage fabrics, and adorned with gold foils. For the make-up, it was made of thin eyeliner, white fingers as if they were paint-dipped, and gold leaf on the nails.
Ryan LO’s collection evoked feelings of magic and mystery, with a twist of royalty. Quilted, lace, knit and crocheted clothes were coloured in black and white, as well as delicate pink and blue pastels. Drop waist silhouettes and curled hair emphasized femininity, and large statement earmuffs and bearskin hats added to the show a distinct boldness.
Fashion Hong Kong revealed three leading brands, 112 Mountainfam, Anveglosa and heaven please+, a collaboration with Hong Kong trade development council fashion Hong Kong. These three brand showed a blend of militant sportswear with high end aesthetic, a touch on the traditions and important heritage of the fashion industry. Different silhouettes were created with the use of refined material with the use of refined material and interesting layers. The last pieces were lavender pleated coat skirt with seat belt style belts to accentuate the looks. The palette of colours was from black into stunning white looks and also used vibrant colours for heaven please collection.
Perhaps the first item to notice in Xu Zhi’s collections for both men and women were dramatic faux fur hats. To match them, faux fur, as well as denim, wool and knit fabrics were used and manipulated to create layered looks that emphasized the shoulders. For colours, the designer chose grey, black, white and navy tones to provide the backdrop for his unmistakable jacquard techniques.
Roland Mouret’s collection endorsed responsible and sustainable fashion. He also played with the idea of gender fluidity in clothing, intertwining masculine and feminine aspects with each other, as seen on the models. It incorporated a vibrant and varied colour palette with black, white, blue, red and more hues. Clothing varied from UK size 8 to 20, the models adorning oversized outfits and also featured suit trousers with detailed stitching and well-made backs, double-breasted blazers and some items made from bamboo. Multiple dresses and skirts had draping sides that gave them volume and movement with a touch of prints and silvers. The large expanse within the National Theatre by the River Thames became the runway and the natural light coming in through the bay windows was manipulated into the setting. The make-up was kept to a minimum achieving a fresh look. Atypically a dog was also part of the show, a complimenting accessory along with the designer bags.
JAMIE WEI HUANG
Jamie Wei Huang’s show evoked feelings of prep school. With pieces in shades of electric blue, eye-popping red and pure white, the clothes were bright and energetic. Common fabrics in the show included denim, knits and corduroy designed in oversized, loose silhouettes and wide-leg trousers. With blush and chunky scarves, the models looked as though they had just stepped off the ski slopes in the Swiss Alps.
Marta Jakubowski’s collection was filled with beautiful knitwear and crushed velvet pieces in a variety of colors, including brown, grey, white and black, but just as interesting was the leafy flower each model held in her mouth. Tailored suits, slits and cut outs were emphasized in the dynamic and multifaceted clothes. Keeping the focus on the fashion, the hairstyling and makeup looks were sleek and natural.
Matty Bovan’s collection was an elevated sort of chaos. With a multitude of colours, bold prints and striking floral and paisley patterns, with ruffles, taffeta and knits, the dishevelled looks contrasted with last year’s more playful show. Draped fabrics, cinched waists and puffy sleeves marked key characteristics of the clothes. Also featured were items from the Coach x Matty Bovan collaboration, particularly eccentric hats and shoes, which furthered the diversity of the collection.
Showcased at the Reform Club on Pal Mall, this collection was, like always about colour and the things seen while travelling, but this time with a local touch such as British fabrics and textures, checks and tassels. Transmitting happiness through colours, silhouettes, the easy-wearable dresses were the main part of the collection. Plumes were added to some of the designs here and there to provide a gentle touch. Tiny bags were added for decoration to express a certain amount of fun to the collection. Gentle colour palette of candy tulles looked easy to twirl around in along with the flattering silhouette.
Marking the first collection for Hannah Weiland, the inspiration for the collection was Greek Mythology. It looked like an association of goddesses like Gaea and Amphitrite, Goddess of Earth and Sea respectively. The Greek Goddess included a cantaloupe yellow dressing-gown style coat which was the highlight of the show. Having its origins in faux-fur, the collection was presented at an industrial warehouse in collaboration with artist Ryan Driscoll that provided the goddess aesthetic to the venue.
Bora Aksu is known for showcasing his collection in a dreamy, romantic setting and he presented his latest collection at the Garden Museum. The Central St. Martins graduate is specialised in designing intricate dresses with ruffles with different shades of blue. The models were seen wearing sunglasses with large, embellished metal frames surrounding small black lenses. Valentina Tereshkova, a Russian cosmonaut and politician, also being the first woman to go to space, was said to be the inspiration, hence explaining the use of glasses. The dresses as the show progressed became colourful and ruffled.
Ashley Williams’ collection stunned, with patterns depicting sperm on some of the stand-out pieces. If that wasn’t enough, the clothes also featured bright colors such as pink, highlighter yellow and cherry red contrasted with black. The range of fabrics used was vast, boasting everything from fleece to silk to faux fur. Clothes were tailored with fitted waists and high necklines. The rainbow of colours extended to the footwear, with models wearing statement monochrome shoes.
The latest collection from Gayeon Lee combines the designer’s vast knowledge and passion for fashion, textile and fine art. Lee designed luxurious, simple yet sophisticated creations, keeping in mind the needs of the modern woman. Autumnal shades formed the coloured palette with pops of blue making an occasional appearance. Atypical to most designers, Lee’s Autumn/Winter collection was dominated by pastels, beautiful and floral designs. It featured layered skirts and tailored overcoats, crisp white shirts, midi-skirts and long-line dresses. The outfits were accentuated with accessories such as the signature metal strap bags and dual-toned shoes. The make-up was simple and natural, hair held back a silk hairband or slicked into a ponytail or messy bun by a silk scarf.
This collection was inspired by the history of dance such as Welsh folk dance, Morris dance and marypole dance. The designs presented an emotional image of the difficult times of modern Great Britain is going through i.e Brexit. The web of references produced a patchwork of fabrics which were magnified by the quirky styling of blue tights covered with net stockings with clogs. The collection presented deconstructed Victorian jackets, different take on ruffle dresses of different eras, suits with decorative harnesses referencing the costumes of Morris dancers. A turquoise ruffle exploding out from under a tapestry print mini dress showed designers’ talent for three-dimensional theatre.
Designer Park Seung Gun’s newest collection invokes his dream for the ideal woman of the season, a true queen in the most modern sense of the word. pushBUTTON, known for its playful take on street-wear and use of whimsical prints, brought its ministration to London, where Park showcased British culture through his vibrant perception. Elizabethan-collared shirts and pourpoint jackets in utilitarian fabrics, white silk dresses, patchwork biker shorts, bustier details, deconstructed blazers, high-wasted trousers accentuated by flares were highlights in the collection. The model strutted down the runway sporting a extravagant headpieces and accessories such as paper maché crowns, chandelier and foil tinsel bearskin hats. The use of multi-coloured and heavy mix of printed fabrics in the outfits was evident. They ranged from a number of mixed and matched patterns like leopard prints, polka dots, bold acid washes, tartan patterns, military detailing, frills and flares.
Image 1 Malene Oddershede Bach, Image 2 Malan breton, Image 3 Eudon Choi Image 4 Fabian Kis, Image 5 Toga, Image 6 Margaret Howell, Image 7 Roland Mouret, Image 8 Underage, Image 9 David Koma, Image 10 Mother of pearl, Image 11 Shrimps